The Riches of Abu Dhabi

city guides

Sleek modernity meets rich Islamic culture in the wealthiest city in the United Arab Emirates.

Long overshadowed by Dubai, Abu Dhabi is beginning to emerge as the discerning executive’s choice for doing business in the Middle East. Less touristy than its brasher, bolder brother down the road, Abu Dhabi is also less blighted by construction work and traffic problems. Add the fact that the emirate, one of seven that comprise the United Arab Emirates (UAE), has far more oil and a smattering of the world’s largest financial institutions on its doorstep, and you have a region that means business.

Abu Dhabi is a complex mix of liberalism and Islamic tradition, which is regularly illustrated by the call to prayer. While drinking is allowed in hotels, there are stiff penalties for being drunk in public and a zero tolerance policy for drunk driving. Revealing images in foreign magazines and newspapers are censored, and sex scenes in films are cut.

Most UAE nationals you will encounter are incredibly friendly and understanding, and you are unlikely to cause offense by not knowing Islamic traditions. However, some useful pointers include: Never inquire about a man’s wife, only his family; and avoid showing the soles of your feet or the palm of your left hand to Emiratis (both acts are considered rude). Out of respect, you should not display affection in public (kissing, hugging or even holding hands), and should consider how you dress—while you will see plenty of tourists and ex-pats exposing a lot of flesh, that is still frowned upon by the locals. If you are a woman doing business in the UAE, you are unlikely to be treated any differently than your male counterparts.

One final thing to remember: Friday is a holy day, with most shops closed until 4 p.m. and other businesses closed all day.

While Abu Dhabi doesn’t make the headlines as much as Dubai, the city is growing at an amazing pace. The recent redevelopment of the coastal road has added an extra dimension to the capital of the UAE, but it’s nothing compared to what is to come. More than $100 billion worth of developments will be built over the next five years, including up to 50 hotels, a new airport capable of handling 20 million passengers a year, a Frank Gehry–designed outpost of the Guggenheim, and a branch of the Louvre. The city is also commissioning a race track that will host a leg of the Formula 1 Grand Prix tour starting in 2009.

The sleeping giant of the Middle East is not only waking up, it’s keen to compensate for lost time.

Where to stay

Visitors—both business and leisure—are beginning to recognize Abu Dhabi’s potential, and earlier this year two cruise ships (one of which served as the set of ’70s sitcom The Love Boat) were brought in to deal with the overflow demand for rooms. You should still be able to secure a room, but book early.

A night in the presidential suite of the Emirates Palace will set you back $3,800; the room plays host to former U.S. President Bill Clinton when he’s in town and comes complete with a personal butler. If you’re looking for something a little less stately, entry-level rooms go for a more reasonable $735 per night. It’s one of the finest hotels in the Middle East, located right on the Cornice Road.

Le Royal Meridien ($545–1,390) is the top business hotel in the city and has a revolving restaurant on the top floor, a dedicated business center, and great conference and meeting rooms available for hire. Although geared more towards families, the Beach Rotana Hotel and Towers ($260–3,270) is another fine choice, with several of the city’s best restaurants, its own tennis courts and beach access should you wish to unwind. Other places worth considering are the Hilton Abu Dhabi ($250–400), set in some of the most attractive grounds in the city; or the Sheraton ($355–710), which is clean, convenient and recently refurbished.

Where to dine

Dining options in Abu Dhabi reflect the city’s multinational population, and you’ll find plenty of great Lebanese and Indian restaurants dotted around the streets. The country’s licensing laws, however, restrict service of alcohol to outlets located in hotels. As a result, you’ll find the majority of top-class restaurants nestled up to a five-star hotel. The city’s proximity to the Gulf means seafood is a specialty, and Finz in the Beach Rotana (12:30–3:30 p.m. & 7–11:30 p.m. daily, average meal for two $135) arguably serves up the best in the city—don’t miss the heavenly hammour tikka. For fantastic Italian food, head out of town to the Emirates Palace’s Mezzaluna (12:30–3:30 p.m. & 6:30–11 p.m. daily, average meal for two $135) for exquisite dishes in a lavish setting. Those hoping for a taste of the Middle East should visit Al Mawal (noon–3 a.m., average meal for two $100) in the Hilton. If you’re looking to unwind, the Jazz Bar (7 p.m.–1 a.m.) in the same hotel is the busiest club in town and boasts a talented in-house band.

Inside the Abu Dhabi Guide

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• Getting there, getting around
  
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Required reading

• Doing business in Abu Dhabi by Dean Foster

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Based in Dubai, MARCUS WEBB is the group editor of Time Out GCC. He moved to the region in March 2002, promising to return by Christmas: Five years on, he has yet to leave.