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Jul 10 2007, 11:39 AM EDT (current)	jimglab
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restaurants

Thanks to some fine dining choices in terminals, this phrase is no longer an oxymoron.

A good meal at the airport? We know what you’re thinking. Believe it or not, you don’t have to resort to greasy fast food while waiting for your flight. Airport restaurants have come a long way. Nowadays, you can expect your dining experience to include gourmet fare, fine wines and efficient service—including at the following five restaurants. But beware of liking them too much, or you just may find yourself arriving at the airport even earlier than usual.

Stanford’s

PORTLAND, OREGON

7000 NE Airport Way, Portland International Airport, 503-493-4056, stanfords.com

This popular Northwest chain has several branches in Portland, including this one near Gates B and C at PDX. The decor features rich wood, stone walls and leather-backed chairs. The comprehensive menu serves continental cuisine— appetizers include crab cakes and ahi tuna, while the entrées range from wood-fired grilled steaks (perhaps London broil with a whisky peppercorn sauce, or sirloin with roasted garlic sautéed mushrooms) to seafood and pasta. There is a bustling happy hour in the lounge, with numerous wines from the Pacific Northwest (including Rex Hill pinot noir from the Willamette Valley and Duck Pond Cellars chardonnay from Columbia Valley), as well as Portland microbrews like Bridgeport Blue Heron Pale Ale and MacTarnahan’s Pale Ale.

Figs

QUEENS, NEW YORK

Central Terminal Building, LaGuardia Airport, 718-446-7600, figslga.com

This stylish restaurant in LGA’s Central Terminal (Concourse D) is the ideal spot for delicious, reasonably priced food in a casual atmosphere. Owned by celebrity chef Todd English, Figs also has two branches in Boston. The menu specializes in Mediterranean dishes like insalata bistecca and chicken parmesan in a tomato sauce with pasta, but most people order the delicious brick-oven flatbread pizzas—favorites include figs, gorgonzola cheese and prosciutto; shrimp with roasted red onions, tomato sauce, garlic and scallions; and the spicy chicken sausage with herbed ricotta and sweet balsamic onions. Even if you’re not hungry, you can have a glass of pinot grigio or cabernet sauvignon by the bar, where you’re sure to engage in some interesting conversations with fellow travelers.

Ebisu

SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA

International Terminal, San Francisco International Airport, 650-588-2549, ebisusushi.com

This super popular sushi restaurant in the Inner Sunset district (near Golden Gate Park) serves some of the freshest and most creative sushi in town—it consistently wins “Best of the Bay” awards. Fans were thrilled when a branch opened at SFO’s North Food Court in the International Terminal a few years ago. As at the original, you can sit at a table or the sushi bar, though the latter might be more interesting for solo travelers. On the menu, you’ll find specialty rolls like Arch Deluxe with soft shell crab and the Bonsai roll with grilled salmon skin, as well as cooked items like chicken teriyaki, prawn tempura and fried oysters. Be sure to try some of the premium sake, like Green Ridge and Cherry Bouquet.

Gallagher’s Steakhouse

NEWARK, NEW JERSEY

Terminal C3, Newark Liberty International Airport, 973-286-0034, gallaghersnysteakhouse.com

Tuck into a juicy steak at this branch of the classic chophouse in New York’s Theater District—the only fine dining restaurant at EWR. The clubby wooden interiors and red-and-white checkered tablecloths are similar to what you’ll find in the original, as are the movie memorabilia and friendly service. Choose from filet mignon, prime rib or sirloin with all the calorie-laden sides you can handle, such as enormous baked potatoes, hash browns, creamed spinach and sautéed onions. They also offer an impressive wine list, with labels from France and California’s Napa and Sonoma Valleys. The left-hand side of the restaurant has large picture windows, where you can watch planes depart and land.

Legal Sea Foods

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

Terminal C, Logan Airport, 617-568-2800, legalseafoods.com

This well-regarded Boston-based seafood chain now has dozens of restaurants on the East Coast, so many folks are happy they can get their fix when traveling as well. In fact, there are three outposts at Logan, including one in Terminal B and a Legal Test Kitchen (a new brand from the company) in Terminal A, with the largest in Terminal C. Start out with a bowl of New England clam chowder, then choose from entrées like baked Boston scrod, fish and chips, and seafood gumbo. There’s also a raw bar with succulent oysters and clams, or even North Atlantic lobsters — and don’t miss the Boston cream pie for dessert.

FAST FIX

If you don’t have time for a sit-down meal, try these to-go spots.

Gold Star Chili

Delta Terminal 3, Greater Cincinnati International Airport

Chow down on delicious Cincinnati-style chili from this company with branches all over the Midwest. Choose from the 3-, 4- or 5-way — meaning spaghetti and chili topped with grated cheddar cheese, onions or beans (or any combination thereof).

Café Versailles

Concourses D, E and F, Miami International Airport

Join the lines waiting to sample authentic Cuban fare—from Cuban sandwiches
to ham and cheese empanadas to pastries with café con leche—at this popular outpost of the original in Miami’s Little Havana (the one in Concourse F is open
24 hours).

Ivar’s

Central Terminal, Seattle-Tacoma International Airport

This Northwest favorite—the original opened on Seattle’s waterfront in
1938—has a seafood bar at Sea-Tac’s Pacific Marketplace. Order their signature cod fish ’n’ chips, or try the salmon, oysters, clams or scallops with your chips instead.

Manny’s Deli

Concourse A, Chicago’s Midway Airport

Like Katz’s in New York, this Chicago deli is a local institution.
At the Midway branch, order a corned beef or pastrami on rye with a side of potato pancakes—you’ll be the envy of your seat-mates as they nosh on standard airline grub.

Wolfgang Puck Gourmet Express

Various airports, including LAX, Chicago O’Hare and McCarran in Las Vegas

This well-known emporium from celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck serves up high-quality, healthy fast food, including salads (the Chinois chicken is a best-seller), sandwiches on fresh-baked bread, and thin-crust pizzas.

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Jill Fergus is a freelance writer based in New York.