city guide

Venture off the beaten path to discover the real London.

While London has always been a dynamic city, it is positively buzzing right now. The city has seen an explosion of IPOs, hedge funds, along with a massive injection of private equity and those in charge of the wealth have a host of new places to spend it. Plenty of glossy new restaurants and bars have opened in the capital and the international art world is also flocking to London, thanks to events such as the annual Frieze Art Fair, which is now firmly on the art world’s social calendar.

The city is also establishing itself as the global design capital, with events like the London Design Festival. As a frequent visitor to London, you’ve already seen the big sights, such as the Tate Modern and the British Museum, and probably had endless breakfast meetings at The Wolseley but what about the lesser known places, such as the top rated Arbutus or the quirky Sir John Soane Museum? Read on to find out our top picks of where to shop, drink, eat and what to see in order to experience the city like a local.


RETAIL

Mint

This design store is the London equivalent of New York’s Moss or Homer. Mint showcases handmade ceramics, along with furniture, limited-edition art and cutlery. The shop is centrally located in Mayfair and only two stories high, so it’s ideal for a quick browse or for picking up a gift during your lunch break.

70 Wigmore Street, +44-020-7224-4406, mintshop.co.uk


Linley

Prior to becoming the chairman of Christie’s, David Linley (Princess Margaret’s son) made a name for himself as a furniture designer. He has two London stores, both called Linley, which sell bespoke furniture and home accessories, such as candlesticks and photo frames. Linley clients include Oprah Winfrey and Carolina Herrera.

Linley Belgravia: 60 Pimlico Road, +44-020-7730-7300;
Linley Mayfair: 46 Albemarle Street, +44-020-7290-1410, davidlinley.com



TOURS

Urban Gentry

The hippest tour company in town arranges customized London tours. The company specializes in art, fashion, design and shopping, and a full-day tour starts at
£300 ($600).

+44-020-8149-6253, urbangentry.com


AT NIGHT

1707 Wine Bar

Designed by David Collins, this stylish new place for an after-work drink is located in the refurbished Fortnum & Mason store. You’ll find a wide selection of wines by the glass and bottle, or try a wine flight (a selection of three glasses) while nibbling on small plates of smoked salmon, Spanish ham and cheese.

Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, +44-0845-602-5694, fortnumandmason.com


Ronnie Scott’s

Although Ronnie Scott’s has undergone a complete makeover (and revamped its menu), it remains one of the best jazz clubs in the world. Expect performances from a range of talents, from up-and-coming progressive bands to former Herbie Hancock trumpeter Dr. Eddie Henderson.

47 Frith Street, Soho, +44-020-7439-0747, ronniescotts.co.uk


HOTELS


The InterContinental Park Lane

The refurbished InterContinental Park Lane has plenty to offer business travelers, from butler service to a dedicated executive club floor. There is also a stylish lobby bar and an Elemis spa. Rates start at £300 ($600).

One Hamilton Place, Park Lane, +44-020-7409-3131, ichotelsgroup.com



Connaught

Each guest at the Connaught is assigned a personal butler, who can provide help with dinner reservations and car service, as well as IT assistance. Rates start at £480 ($960).

Carlos Place, Mayfair, +44-020-7499-7070, the-connaught.co.uk





Threadneedles

This luxury boutique hotel is housed in a former bank, located nearby both the Bank of England and the London Stock Exchange. Rates start at £335 ($670).

5 Threadneedles Street, +44-020-7657-8080, theetoncollection.com/threadneedles



RESTAURANTS

Bord’eaux

This new brasserie in the Grosvenor House Hotel specializes in southern French cuisine, such as Andouille sausage and platters of oysters, as well as comfort food like croque monsieurs. Bord’eaux serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and stays open late.

Grosvenor House, Park Lane, +44-020-7399-8460, bord-eaux.com




Arbutus

This cosy, Michelin-starred restaurant is a solid bet for a business lunch or a relaxed dinner. The menu features fresh, seasonal food, such as line-caught Cornish Pollock and a roasted shin of veal.

63 Frith Street, +44-020-7734-4545, arbutusrestaurant.co.uk


J. Sheekey

If you’re looking to impress a client, it’s hard to beat J. Sheekey, owned by the same team behind the Ivy. The atmosphere of this power restaurant is dark and clubby, and the menu specializes in seafood.

28–32 St. Martin’s Court, +44-020-7240-2565, j-sheekey.co.uk


EVENTS

The London Film Festival

Officially known as The Times BFI (British Film Institute) London Film Festival, this annual event—held this year October 15–30—brings international stars to London. Hundreds of films will be screened, ranging from Hollywood blockbusters to independent documentaries from over 30 countries. There will also be panel discussions and lectures with well-known actors and directors.

bfi.org.uk/whatson/lff/


London Design Festival

This annual festival, now in its sixth year, takes place all over the city
September 13–23, 2008. It includes hundreds of events, public shows and seminars. The Financial Times will hold a range of breakfast talks, and Spanish designer Jaime Hayón will create a public installation in Trafalgar Square.

+44-020-7734-6444, londondesignfestival.com


Open House London

If you’ve ever wondered what the inside of the iconic Gherkin building, the Bank of England or the BBC looks like, bookmark Open House London on September 20 and 21. During this annual event, the city’s most famous buildings open their doors to the public, and admission is free.

openhouse.org.uk


MUSEUMS

Bank of England Museum

This museum traces the history of the bank from 1694 to the present. Located inside the bank’s headquarters, collections include everything from ancient gold bars to documents from famous customers, such as the Duchess of Marlborough, George Washington and Horatio Nelson.

Threadneedle Street, +44-020-7601-5545,
bankofengland.co.uk/education/museum/index.htm


Horniman Museum & Gardens

This museum was started from the personal collection of Victorian tea trader Frederick John Horniman, who collected specimens and artifacts during his travels around the world in the 1860s. The museum specialises in anthropology, natural history and musical instruments, and has a huge collection of taxidermied animals. The Horniman regularly hosts music concerts and special exhibits, and the 16 acres of gardens are also worth a look.

100 London Road, Forest Hill, +44-020-8699-1872, horniman.ac.uk


Sir John Soane Museum

This museum is the former home of Sir John Soane (1753–1837), the eccentric architect of the Bank of England. He amassed a phenomenal collection of art and antiquities from around the world, and today the museum still looks largely as it did during Soane’s era. Highlights include paintings by Canaletto and Turner, the sarcophagus of Pharaoh Seti I and drawings by Christopher Wren.

13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, Holborn, +44-020-7405-2107, soane.org


Geffrye Museum

Located in east London, near the city’s financial center, this quirky museum focuses on the changing style of English domestic interiors, from the 1600s to the present. Visitors can see the elegance of Georgian interiors and over-the-top Victorian decor, as well as modern-day IKEA furniture.

Kingsland Road, +44-020-7739-9893, geffrye-museum.org.uk


Old Operating Theatre & Herb Garret

Tucked away in the roof of the old St. Thomas Baroque church, the 19th-century Old Operating Theatre is the oldest of its kind in England. The centerpiece of the museum is the operating theatre itself, complete with a wooden operating table and observation stands. Note that a collection of surgical instruments and specimens is also on display, so this sight isn’t for the squeamish. The museum also houses the Herb Garret, which was used by the apothecary of St. Thomas’ Hospital for storing medicinal herbs.

thegarret.org.uk


COFFEE

Fernandez and Wells

While it’s easy to get a decent cup of tea in London, coffee is another matter. For a quick morning cup, try Fernandez and Wells, which serves single-estate–blend coffee from local cult favorite Monmouth Coffee Company. Pastries and breakfast sandwiches are also available.

73 Beak Street, +44-020-7287-8124, fernandezandwells.com

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CHRISTINA VALHOULI is a freelance writer in London.