restaurants

From JFK’S booth to Buffalo Bill’s bar stool, the insides of these old gathering-spots are as celebrated now as they were a century or more ago.

If you travel frequently for business, you spend a lot of time in restaurants. Often, these lunches or dinners take place in extravagant eateries with opulent interiors, crisp service and overly fussy cuisine courtesy of the latest celebrity chef. Sure, those meals can be memorable—but after the umpteenth amuse-bouche, you may find yourself thinking, I’d really love a burger and a beer right now. Perhaps your tablemates are on the same wavelength. Who says you can’t have a productive meeting in a more low-key setting? In fact, it may even be more conducive to casual conversation, especially at lunchtime. But don’t think you have to sacrifice atmosphere—there are plenty of historic taverns and restaurants with Old World interiors, good grub and intriguing stories. Here are some places to keep in mind if you’re looking for an informal business meal.



Union Oyster House
Boston, Massachusetts
41 Union Street
617-227-2750, unionoysterhouse.com

This Boston classic, a designated National Historic Landmark, opened in 1826, making it Beantown’s oldest restaurant. Just a block from Faneuil Hall, it’s housed in a series of small, low-ceilinged rooms with wooden floors and a true 19th century feel. If you can’t get a table, grab a seat at the U-shaped raw bar, where you can sample New England’s best clam chowder, shrimp cocktail, steamed mussels and, of course, plenty of succulent oysters. Legend has it Daniel Webster used stop by for his tumbler of brandy and no less than six plates of oysters. JFK had his own booth (#18), and Massachusetts senators John Kerry and Edward Kennedy are fans.

McGillin’s Olde Ale House
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
1310 Drury Street, 215-735-5562, mcgillins.com

This Philly institution near City Hall began selling pints back in 1860, when William McGillin ran a tavern and raised his family upstairs. “Pa” died in 1901, but his wife, known as “Ma,” lived until 1937, operating the tavern as a lunch spot during Prohibition and reopening it as a bar before she died. Back in the day, it was a hangout for the likes of John Barrymore, Tennessee Williams and Ethel Merman. Today, you’ll find a mix of locals, tourists and celebrities such as Will Ferrell and Rachael Ray. Enjoy reasonably priced fare (pork chops, cheese steak, Irish mixed grills) and 22 draft beers, including house specialties McGillin’s Real Ale and McGillin’s Genuine Lager, both brewed in Pennsylvania.

Billy Martin’s Tavern
Washington, D.C.
1264 Wisconsin Avenue NW, 202-333-7370, billymartinstavern.com

Georgetown is best known for its prestigious university, founded in 1789, but it’s also home to Billy Martin’s, a handsome, wood-paneled, family-owned saloon dating from 1933 (William Martin is the fourth-generation owner). Harry Truman, JFK and Jackie, and Mickey Mantle were regulars, and it’s said that four-star generals preferred to sit on milk crates than dine elsewhere when there were no available tables. Today, Madeline Albright, Chris Matthews and Ben Bradlee are some of the movers and shakers spotted here. The menu features New York strip steak, Welsh rarebit and lump crab cakes, and the bar has a nice selection of scotch.

Buckhorn Exchange
Denver, Colorado
1000 Osage Street
303-534-9505, buckhorn.com

Teddy Roosevelt, William “Buffalo Bill” Cody and assorted cattlemen, miners, silver barons and Indian chiefs have frequented this rustic steakhouse. The Old West decor—pressed-tin ceiling, hunting memorabilia, red-and-white checkered tablecloths and hundreds of animal heads mounted on the wall—probably hasn’t changed much since the restaurant opened in 1893, making it Denver’s oldest (note the Colorado Liquor License #1 above the bar in the upstairs saloon). The menu features steaks and wild game like blackened buffalo prime rib and broiled quail with a prickly pear apricot glaze; more adventurous eaters can try the fried alligator tail and marinated rattlesnake; and don’t miss the chocolate “moose” with a cinnamon rum sauce for dessert.

Good Grub

Here are a few other historic bars and restaurants to consider.

John’s Grill
San Francisco
63 Ellis Street
415-986-0069, johnsgrill.com

The oak-paneled walls are lined with photos of famous clientele at this classic steak and seafood restaurant, opened in 1908. It was used as a setting for Dashiell Hammett’s Maltese Falcon — try the Sam Spade’s pork chops.


John Barleycorn
Chicago
658 West Belden Avenue
773-348-8899, johnbarleycorn.com

This 1890 bar (once a Chinese laundry during Prohibition) was a favorite of bank robber John Dillinger — he died two blocks away at the Biograph Theater. You’ll find good pub grub (try the chili and the burgers) and plenty of beers on tap.


Musso & Frank Grill
Los Angeles
6667 Hollywood Boulevard
323-467-7788

Orson Wells, Ernest Hemingway and Charlie Chaplin are just a few of the famous diners at this Hollywood staple, dating from 1919. Sit in one of the red leather booths, sip a martini and soak up the old-fashioned ambience.


The Rathskeller
Indianapolis
401 East Michigan Street
317-636-0396, rathskeller.com

Housed in the basement of the historic Athenaeum building, this 1894 Bavarian restaurant serves bratwurst, wiener schnitzel, strudel and beers from all over the world. In warm weather, have a drink in the outdoor beer garden.


Antoine’s
New Orleans
713 Rue Saint Louis
504-581-4422, antoines.com

A bit more upscale than other recommendations here, this French Quarter restaurant, dating from 1840, is still laid-back (this is Nawlins, after all). Oysters Rockefeller were invented here, and other popular dishes include crawfish bisque, escargots and trout meunière.