city guide

With new casinos, new shops and new shows, Las Vegas continues reinventing itself year after year.

You’ve heard of human years versus dog years. But what about Vegas years? While a dog ages about seven times as fast as a person, Las Vegas ages about twice as fast as a dog, thanks to reinvention, innovation, competition and the sheer ego of the place. It’s a 24-hour city with 24-carat aspirations, and because of that, things happen quickly—so quickly, in fact, that even while I’m spinning the reels for Megabucks, the city is changing all around me. If you haven’t visited in the last year or so, you’ll see by the altered landscape exactly what I mean.

On your next trip, another change you might notice is that while some development continues, many other projects have stalled all along the Strip. Visitor numbers to Las Vegas are down, reflecting the overall slowdown of the economy, according to the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority. In 2008, the city saw about a 3.8 percent decline in visitors compared to 2007 (which adds up to about one million fewer tourists), and gaming revenue dropped 9 percent across the county.

Las Vegas has long been one of the top convention destinations in the U.S., but convention traffic has suffered a blow as well, with attendance down 5 percent and meetings down 5.2 percent in 2008. Still, 2009 is off to an invigorating start. Nearly 110,000 attendees were in town for January’s International Consumer Electronics Show. Another stitch in this silver lining: Because of decreasing visitor numbers, those who do come to town will find some of the best room rates and deals that Las Vegas has ever seen.


The newest addition to the city’s megacollection of casinos opened last December. Encore is the latest creation of Steve Wynn, the casino magnate known for his Midas touch. Formerly the owner of Mirage Resorts (which included such properties as Mirage, Treasure Island and Bellagio), Wynn is known for bringing opulence and elegance to the Strip. But in a move seemingly straight out of Monopoly, Wynn sold the company to MGM in 2000 for $6.4 billion, then went off on his own to build his personal vision of Park Place. You can see the results near the intersection of Spring Mountain Road and Las Vegas Boulevard, where his yin-and-yang towers Wynn (opened in 2005) and Encore sit.

Walking through Encore, I’m struck by how much casinos have changed over the years. From the bright and playful swaths of color to the red chandeliers and the windows that allow natural light to flow into the building, the space is a far cry from the dark and smoky gambling dens of the past. Despite the reported decline in visitors, the tables here are in full effect, even at midmorning on a Wednesday. Texas Hold ’Em is still one of the most popular games, but there’s also a whirlwind of activity around the blackjack, craps, Pai Gow, baccarat and roulette tables, as well as the slot and video poker machines. In this economy, any activity is good activity.

MAKING IT HAPPEN

Each new Vegas casino is like a city within the city. Encore is staffed by nearly 5,000 people—and we’re not just talking about casino attendants, restaurant staff and housekeeping. There’s an entire horticulture and floral department that employs 160 and handles all of the building’s plants and flowers. At the bread shop, 42 bakers work 24 hours a day to produce 20,000 to 25,000 loaves of 100 different varieties of bread for all of Encore’s restaurants. The staff also includes a full-time marine biologist who cares for the crabs and lobsters that will eventually wind up on diners’ plates—her brood averages 4,000 to 5,000 of the sea creatures per month.

But most of these people work behind the scenes, in the semisecret underground casino world that’s set far apart from the fantasy experience most guests want. They—like me—aren’t here to ponder the shortened lives of crustaceans at the hands of humans. I’m here to relax and luxuriate—and it’s easily done. My room in the Tower Suites is an ode to design, from its textured wall treatments to the artwork around the perimeter. From my perfectly soft bed, I can choose to watch the plasma-screen TV or take in panoramic views of sparkling Las Vegas. There’s a command center at my fingertips: With the touch of a button, I can turn on and off overhead lights, open and close drapes and/or sheers, and even turn on my nightlight.

But I don’t stay in my room long. There’s too much to explore. The restaurants in Encore alone would take days to sample. I decide to start with Switch, a French-inspired steakhouse where the decor is as intriguing as the food. Throughout dinner, the walls and ceiling actually morph: Chandeliers grow from 30 inches to 16 feet and the classic French doors and columns raise to the ceiling, replaced by dramatic drapery and netting. It’s like watching a restaurant scene from a sci-fimovie—only you’re the one who’s actually dining.

Other restaurants have more traditional settings (i.e., their walls are stationary): Sinatra is a classic Italian restaurant dedicated to Ol’ Blue Eyes. At Wazuzu, chef Jet Tila prepares a broad-ranging pan-Asian menu, with dishes ranging from steamed rockfish to Korean galbi (short ribs).

I pass on these and opt instead for Botero, a steakhouse with an artistic twist. Sitting poolside, I enjoy my tuna tartare, Kobe short ribs and vanilla-scented yams with marshmallows, prepared by chef Mark LoRusso. The scene around me is vibrant, and the art of Fernando Botero, known for his exaggerated human figures, adds an edge of weirdness. As I eat past the point of fullness, I begin to feel for these dysmorphic women. It seems like the perfect opportunity to take a long walk.

The Palazzo

I wander through Encore and into Wynn, taking a shortcut out to Las Vegas Boulevard and Spring Mountain Road. Palazzo sits across the street. This hotel casino is to the Venetian as Encore is to Wynn. Owned by Sheldon Adelson, the founder of Las Vegas Sands Corp., Palazzo opened in January 2008. I’m not hungry enough to try out the restaurants, which is a shame, because celebrity chefs abound here: Restaurant Charlie by Charlie Trotter, Emeril Lagasse’s Table 10, Wolfgang Puck’s CUT, Mario Batali’s Carnevino and more.

OPTIONS, OPTIONS, OPTIONS

Walking through the casino, I keep seeing signs for Jersey Boys, which is just one of many musically enticing options along the four-mile stretch of Las Vegas Boulevard. Entertainment here is no longer just about tribute bands, magic and showgirls (though you’ll still find those in spades). Production shows dominate the many marquees: Everything from Phantom: The Las Vegas Spectacular to Blue Man Group to Menopause: The Musical are on offer, alongside six different Cirque du Soleil shows and headliners such as Cher and Bette Midler. As I head back to Encore, I ponder the dizzying variety.

I’ve hardly scratched the surface of Las Vegas, and I want to make sure I’m ready for a full day tomorrow. There’s still so much to check out, like the new and improved Mirage volcano, with its fire eruptions set to the music of Grateful Dead drummer Mickey Hart and Indian tabla musician Zakir Hussain. I want to visit the Miracle Mile shops at Planet Hollywood and the new outdoor Town Square shopping center south of the Strip—and I can’t skip the old favorites, like the Bellagio Fountains and Conservatory.

I also can’t imagine leaving town before I get a glimpse of the future at the CityCenter Sales Center. What Encore and Palazzo have done for Las Vegas don’t hold a candle to what CityCenter promises. This urban core is due to open in 2009 on 67 acres between Bellagio and Monte Carlo. A venture between MGM Mirage and Infinity World Development Corp. (a subsidiary of Dubai World), the sprawling area will include a resort-casino and three non-gaming hotels, along with shopping, dining, an Elvis-themed Cirque du Soleil show and even its own monorail. The $9.1 billion venture is the largest privately funded development project in North America, and it has been taking shape on Las Vegas Boulevard since 2006, rising like a shiny, urban Atlantis.

Other projects set to open soon include Anthony Marnell III’s M Resort—a $1 billion project—along with the new, 4,000-unit Fontainebleau, an expansion of the Hard Rock Hotel, a new tower at Caesars Palace, an addition to the Golden Nugget and the $1.2 billion Planet Hollywood Towers by Westgate. By 2010, the city will have nearly 14,000 additional hotel rooms.

As each new door opens, Las Vegas will become an entirely different place—again—and the definition of Vegas years may change just as quickly.
__________________________________________________________

More insider advice on Las Vegas

Explore and share travel advice on:

Getting there, getting around
Where to stay, where to dine
__________________________________________________________

KATE SILVER is a freelance writer who lives in Las Vegas.