If you're heading to Wine Country this winter, consider dropping in Thomas Keller's latest retaurant, Ad Hoc. It's not likely to get a lot of national press, as the concept--one four-course menu nightly served family style--was intended to be temporary until Keller figures out what he wants to do with the space long-term. But so far the response has been impressive enough that he may just make it a regular thing. Expect clean, seasonal, homey, and delicious cuisine (think sauteed leeks, grilled sliced steak, a cheese course, and dessert and wine served in tumblers) served by a staff dressed like mechanics. Leave it to Keller to come up with yet another fresh idea--and leave it to him to make sure you have a delicious dinner next time you're in Napa Valley.

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