Start the day at St. Peter's Basilica, the largest and most impressive church in all of Christendom. Michelangelo's Pièta and Moses are off to the right as you enter, and Gian Lorenzo Bernini's massive central altar is another must-see. Adventurous souls should go to the top of the Basilica for a breathtaking view of Rome. Doors open at 8:45 a.m., and anyone who gets there early will seem to have the place to themselves, as most tour buses don't arrive until 9:30 a.m. or so.

After absorbing St. Peter's, walk to nearby Borgo Pio, a neighborhood that was once a small village and retains some village-like charm. The area, found off to the right when looking at the front of St. Peter's, is popular with tourists, so there are few bargains to be found. But there are several charming trattorie open for lunch, such as Da Roberto (Via Borgo Pio 62; 06 68 80 39 57).

After lunch, walk up the road to the Vatican Museums, which house what may be the world's single most important collection of cultural treasures. Starting with a small but impressive collection of Egyptian artifacts and culminating with the awe-inspiring Sistine Chapel, the museum is not to be missed.