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dining out
September 2007
Sampling fine Asian cuisine doesn’t require crossing the international dateline.
Business travelers tend to eat out frequently, so trying to find a meal that appeals to everyone can be a challenge. Of course, Italian and French are classics, but in the past few years, Asian food has quietly become the go-to cuisine for many corporate travelers. One of the reasons is that it’s not terribly rich—a boon for health-conscious travelers (and these days, who isn’t?)—and the dishes are conducive to sharing, which encourages conversation. The cuisine also varies widely, with Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese eateries available in many cities. Here are some of our picks for first-rate Asian fare.
Bong Su
SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA
311 Third Street
415-536-5800, bongsu.com
This stylish newcomer in trendy SoMa is already winning accolades for its contemporary Vietnamese cuisine. Co-owner and chef Tammy Huynh, who was born in Vietnam and makes frequent trips back to her homeland for inspiration, impresses diners with sophisticated dishes like honey-roasted quail, cod caramelized in garlic, black pepper and molasses, crisp whole black bass served with green mango, and grilled Australian lamb chops served with baby bok choy. The decor includes wooden screens, bronze-hued sheer drapes and sandstone sculptures, and staff uniforms were created by New York–based fashion designer Calvin Tran. Before dinner, have a drink in the sleek lounge. Try the specialty cocktails infused with pineapple and pear juices and exotic flavors like lemongrass.
Wild Ginger
SEATTLE, WASHINGTON
1401 Third Avenue
206-623-4450, wildginger.net
Located across from Benaroya Hall (where the city’s symphony performs), Wild Ginger is one of Seattle’s most popular restaurants. Owners Rick and Ann Yoder, who have traveled extensively in Asia, have crafted a menu of traditional cooking styles and recipes from China and throughout Southeast Asia. Start with a soup, perhaps a laksa (a spicy seafood bouillabaisse from Malaysia), followed by a signature dish such as Wild Ginger fragrant duck spiced with cinnamon and star anise or beef flavored with lemongrass, peanuts and garlic. Those who prefer a more casual dinner can sit at the satay bar, where you can enjoy grilled skewers of shrimp, chicken, beef and lamb, accompanied by sticky rice and delicious side sauces (spicy peanut, black vinegar, sweet-hot, etc.).
There also numerous private rooms for corporate functions.
Megu
NEW YORK, NEW YORK
62 Thomas Street
212-964-7777, megunyc.com
You’ll marvel at the decor at this behemoth restaurant with various dining spaces and lounges in Manhattan’s TriBeCa neighborhood. Just a few of the noteworthy design elements include clay walls, porcelain columns and a Buddha ice sculpture. The modern Japanese cuisine comes courtesy of owner and chief executive chef Koji Imai, who owns numerous successful restaurants in Tokyo. The menu emphasizes fresh ingredients, and fish and produce are shipped in daily from Japan. Yellowtail carpaccio with a spicy kanzuri sauce, grilled scallops with a foie gras teriyaki sauce, and Kagero skirt steak are just a few of the standout dishes. Sip specialty sakes in the Kimono Lounge, lined with dozens of antique kimonos. There is also a Megu Midtown, located in Trump World Tower across from the United Nations.
Wing Lei
LAS VEGAS, NEVADA
3131 Las Vegas Boulevard South
702-770-7000, wynnlasvegas.com
There are numerous restaurants at Wynn Las Vegas, the glitzy resort and casino opened by Vegas impresario Steve Wynn, but one of the most celebrated is WingLei, serving haute Chinese food with a French influence. Taiwanese-born chefRichard Chen, who rose to prominence at Shanghai Terrace at the Peninsula in Chicago, serves such classics as Peking duck with delicate handmade crêpes, pan-seared crab cakes and chile prawns with garlic-infused spinach. His signature organic brown rice is served with mushrooms and crabmeat—and don’t miss the lychee sorbet for dessert. The elegant interiors, designed by JacquesGarcia, include crisp linens on the tables and velvet-backed chairs; while outside in the garden, shaded by pomegranate trees, sits a Botero sculpture.
Moto
CHICAGO, ILLINOIS
945 West Fulton Market Street
312-491-0058, motorestaurant.com
Located in super-trendy Fulton Market (the city’s former meatpacking district),Moto is one of the Windy City’s most talked-aboutrestaurants. It bills itself as a “postmodern degustation restaurant,” and the fusion cuisine—which often looks like a science experiment—is the brainchild of American-born executive chef Homaro Cantu, who formerly served as sous-chef at Charlie Trotter. Cantu presents tasting menus of five or 10 courses (there’s even a grand tour menu, with 18 courses). He uses items like helium and liquid nitrogen to create such innovative dishes as lobster with freshly squeezed orange soda, nitro sushi rolls, swordfish and popcorn and smoked pork shoulder with frozen fried rice. The minimalist decor only adds to the futuristic vibe.
SECOND HELPINGS
Here are few other choices to consider:
Azul
Miami, Florida
(500 Brickell Key Drive, 305-913-8358, mandarinoriental.com)
The signature restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental features an Asian/Mediterranean menu. The Tony Chi–designed space features floor-to-ceiling windows and offers stellar views of Biscayne Bay and downtown Miami’s skyline.
Beacon
Los Angeles, California
(3280 Helms Avenue, 310-838-7500, beacon-la.com)
Chef Kazuto Matsusaka, who honed his skills at Wolfgang Puck’s Chinois on Main, serves up Asian fusion cuisine (ahi tuna pizza with wasabi mayonnaise, miso-marinated black cod with sesame-tossed green beans) at this casual but elegant restaurant.
Red Moon
St. Louis, Missouri
(1500 St. Charles Street, 314-436-9700, redmoon-stl.com)
Enjoy the fun atmosphere at this cavernous restaurant with brightly colored artwork and a pan-Asian menu from chef Marc Felix. Specialties include coconut shrimp with a mango mustard and wok-fried snapper with a soy-ginger glaze.
Saucebox
Portland, Oregon
(214 Southwest Broadway, 503-241-3393, saucebox.com)
This popular spot attracts a fashionable crowd with its specialty cocktails, hip music and delicious pan-Asian dishes like Thai beef salad, Korean baby-back ribs and roasted salmon with a Javanese sauce.
Uni Sashimi Bar
Boston, Massachusetts
(370 Commonwealth Avenue, 617-536-7200, cliorestaurant.com)
This intimate spot (located within Ken Oringer’s Clio restaurant, known for its Asian-French fare) serves some of the city’s best sushi and small plates—try the octopus sushi with soy and ginger, and the rock shrimp tempura with a spicy red-pepper aioli.
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JILL FERGUS is a freelance writer in New York.
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