style

When in China, buy new clothes that fit you—and only you.

Imagine having a suit that fits you like a second skin and doesn’t blow out your wallet. If owning the ultimate suit seems just too good to be true, look no farther than your next trip to China—specifically, Shanghai or Hong Kong—to make this fantasy a reality.

“Custom suits are made from scratch to fit your size, shape and posture. Our suits can fit anyone, whether they are tall and lean or short and stout, have sloping shoulders or even a hunch, [or] one arm longer than the other,” says Vishal Daswani of Raja Fashions in Kowloon, Hong Kong.

Not only is the fit better in a custom suit, Daswani adds, but the customer also has the opportunity to customize his or her purchase, from picking the fabric to adding details to lapels, buttonholes or pockets.

“You buy a custom suit for two reasons: the gratification of having something made according to your precise specifications and taste, [and] the perfect fit of the finished product,” says Jeanne Ooi, creative director of Shanghai Tang, which sells from boutiques in Hong Kong, Shanghai and the United States, as well as online.

Selecting the look

Once you decide to take the plunge and have a garment made, you’ll first want to work with the tailor to pick a fabric that fits your budget and your needs. Then you’ll decide whether to order a made-to-measure suit (based on existing designs and measurements), or a true custom or bespoke suit from your specific measurements. Be sure to discuss exactly what you are looking for and how you will wear the garment.

Finding the fit

Once the basics are in order, you start the fitting process. If you aren’t among the tailor’s existing client roster, most will recommend an initial fitting, a second one once the guts of the garment are in place, and a final fitting to refine the details, according to Ricky Kwan of Taipan Row Tailors in Hong Kong.

Once a tailor knows his customer, the second fitting is often omitted— but each fitting helps ensure that the garment will look and feel even better when worn. In most cases, it only takes about a week between fittings, Kwan says. In anywhere from about three to 12 weeks, you’ll have your new suit.

Assessing the cost

The cost depends on how much you’re willing to shop around, as well as the raw materials put into the end product. The better the fabric and the more handwork involved, the more you’ll pay. Finer fabrics and more hand-stitching boost the price, but also the quality.

Basic suits at reputable firms start around $300, but can easily go up to thousands of dollars, with the average around $1,000. Shirts start at $40 or so, but can cost up to hundreds of dollars. However, in order for customers to save money, most tailors offer discounts on multiple-item purchases.

Reaching the right price

Most experts agree that there’s nothing wrong with trying your hand at a little price negotiation. “You can offer a lower amount than the asking price and see if the shopkeeper or clerk comes down on price,” says Stefan Verstappen, world traveler and author of The Thirty-Six Strategies of Ancient China (China Books
& Periodicals, 1999), as well as an upcoming book on Chinese business etiquette.

But never agree on a price and then walk away, he says. “This is the equivalent of agreeing to pay your bill after haggling a price, and then [starting to haggle] over the price again once the bill is presented.”

Verstappen adds that sometimes Westerners perceive Chinese shopkeepers as aggressive. Even so, it’s important to remain calm and polite, and never raise your voice. “It’s true that a shopkeeper will assume a friendly person is less likely to haggle, but just politely offer a lower counteroffer and smile,” he advises. “When the vendor no longer gives you a counteroffer, say thank you and start to walk away. If they stop you at the door or chase you outside, you know they are ready to make their lowest offer.”