Lunch Delivery - Seoul

Once noted for its culinary provincialism, Korea has turned into a gourmet’s paradise. Yes, Korean food—like bulgoki or kalbi, classic beef dishes; or bibimbap, a mélange of veggies, bits of beef (vegetarians can order the dish sans beef) and maybe an egg mingled with rice and hot pepper sauce—is ubiquitous, but you can also savor everything from fast-food pizza and burgers to haute cuisine. For the best in Korean food, wander a few blocks north of Chong Gye Cheon to Insa-dong, an ancient district of traditional restaurants and small shops selling distinctly Korean artifacts. A tiny favorite: Daenamoo Bobjip (Bamboo Rice House, 02 735-2356). For the most exquisite in fusion as well as Korean, look for Min’s Club, in a restored Korean-style house (02 733-2977, fax 02 733-2967).

Fine dining is everywhere, including in Itaewon, where great restaurants have sprung up just a few blocks from the thriving tailor and souvenir shops, sleazy bars and pickup joints catering to GIs from the nearby U.S. military base. One of the best: Le Saint-Ex (02 795-2465), on an alley off the main drag through Itaewon. Owner Benjamin Jonau somehow squeezes in art exhibitions along with a constantly shifting menu—and he opened a Spanish restaurant, La Plancha (02 790-0063), across the way.

South of the river, in glitzy Apukujeong, try Gossen (02 515-1863) for Italian-style and Korean fare opposite the Galleria Department Store. Nearby, Once in a Blue Moon (02 540-5490) offers live music, featuring western standards to complement a standard western menu. Most hotels have terrific if expensive restaurants, both Korean and foreign. Room 201 (02 3701-0500 or 02 735-9071) is a new Italian restaurant, part of which actually is Room 201 in the New Seoul Hotel behind City Hall. The set lunch is highly recommended for fine dining at a reasonable price.