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destinations:city guides: buenos aires

Created for and published in Executive Travel magazine

by Brian Byrnes
Spring 2005



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Dining in Buenos Aires

Eating is a way of life for Argentines. Dinner is the main meal of the day and isn’t usually served until 9 p.m., although most restaurants open around 8 p.m. While Buenos Aires offers culinary delights from all over the globe, traditional Argentine cuisine consists of one thing, and one thing only: beef. The cattle that graze in the southern Pampas are strictly grass-fed, producing some of the tastiest meat in the entire world. For a thick and juicy filet mignon, order the bife de lomo. For a bigger version of a New York strip, try the bife de chorizo. Argentines leave nothing to waste, and nearly every part of the cow’s anatomy is served, from the kidneys (rinones) to the glands (mollejas). Sometimes it’s better not to ask. Of course, an Argentine meal wouldn’t be complete without a glass of delicious wine from the Mendoza region in the Andes Mountains. The local specialty is the Malbec Red, which will be on the menu in any restaurant in town. Argentina is quickly catching up with neighboring Chile in its effort to market its fine wines overseas; many mouthwatering Malbecs are now available in the U.S. and Europe.

One of the city’s top destinations for beef is Cabana las Lilas (Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 516, tel. 4313-1336) in Puerto Madero. The restaurant is a favorite amongst the corporate crowd for its impeccable service and tender steaks, which come from cows raised on its own estancia in the Pampas.

Many of the city’s newest and most progressive restaurants are located in the neighborhoods of Palermo and Las Canitas, both of which are a 10-minute and 10-peso taxi ride from downtown. Palermo is currently undergoing a renaissance, and scores of formerly run-down houses have been transformed into cool restaurants, clubs and boutiques that cater to the young, bohemian crowd. The epicenter of the barrio is Plaza Cortazar, on the corner of Jorge Luis Borges and Horduras streets. From here, you can wander for blocks in any direction and find a smorgasbord of different culinary options such as vegetarian, Arabian, Nordic, Moroccan, Vietnamese, Mexican and more. Dominga (Honduras 5618, tel. 4771-4443) serves great pork, pasta and sushi in a vibrant setting in an enclave of Palermo known as Palermo Hollywood, where many local television and production studios are located. Nearby in Las Canitas, your best bet is Novecento (Baez 199, tel. 4778-1900), styled after a New York chophouse (there are also locations in Manhattan, Miami, and Punta del Este, Uruguay), which serves fantastic fusion dishes and has an extensive wine list. A tip of 10 to 15 percent is the norm at most restaurants.