Nowhere gives more support to Rome's claim as one of the world's culinary capitals than the hilltop ristorante La Pergola (inside the Cavalieri Hilton, Via Cadlolo 101; 06 35 09 21 52), the city's only three-star Michelin restaurant, with an elegant atmosphere, impeccable service, breathtaking vistas of St. Peter's Basilica and the city—and a wine list nearly as breathtaking as the view. Celebrated chef Hans Beck creates seasonal menu choices that never fail to amaze.



The Hostaria dell'Orso di Gualtiero Marchesi (Via dei Soldati 25c; 06 68 30 11 92), housed in an opulent 15th-century palace, is an icon among Roman restaurants and offers a creative and gratifying take on traditional Italian cuisine.

Dal Bolognese (Piazza del Popolo 1; 06 36 11 473) is particularly attractive in the cooler months, with a menu of expertly prepared pastas and grilled meats.

Tucked away on a side street of Rome's old ghetto is Piperno (Monte de Cenci 9; 06 68 80 66 29). It has been around for nearly 150 years but remains one of the city's culinary secrets, with a menu of traditional choices prepared with a delicate hand. And for a less sophisticated but more typical Roman experience, try the Taverna Trilussa (Via del Politeama 23; 06 58 18 918). This always bustling local spot is so Roman that its enticing menu is written in the local dialect, rather than in traditional Italian. The "mimosa" is a mouth-watering pasta dish only available here.

-- Eric J. Lyman

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