Choosing from among Tokyo’s estimated 80,000 eateries, which range from stand-and-slurp noodle joints to exclusive ryotei Japanese restaurants with multi-course kaiseki seasonal cuisine, can be just a little daunting. Somewhere between these extremes are izakaya, or Japanese-style pubs. These are good places to start, since they’re a mainstay for Japanese relaxing after work or going out on the weekend.

For a delectable sampling of traditional Japanese country-style cooking in a contemporary setting, head to Hibiki on the 46th floor of the Dentsu Building in Shiodome (1-8-1 Higashi-Shimbashi, 81-3-6215-8051). Accessed through the downstairs Caretta Shiodome mall, it’s a classy take on pub fare with great sake and stunning views of Tokyo Bay. Another upscale izakaya chain worth visiting is Gonpachi (1-13-11 Nishi-Azabu, 81-3-5771-0170, gonpachi.jp). Made up like an old kura, or traditional warehouse, it’s more down-to-earth than Hibiki and has a festive atmosphere, a boisterous waitstaff and delicious soba noodles, yakitori and grilled fish.

Tokyo has the best sushi in the world, and Fukuzushi (5-7-8 Roppongi, 81-3-3402-4116, roppongifukuzushi.com) is one of the capital’s finest sushi bars. Entry is via a traditional courtyard, and the most enjoyable place to tuck into some fresh tuna, eel and salmon is at the 30-foot bar made of cypress. Although set courses are available, try to bone up on sushi terms beforehand to get the most out of the experience.

For kaiseki cuisine that will astound the palate and the eyes, renowned Kyoto chef Yoshihiro Murata has a Tokyo branch of his exquisite eatery, Kikunoi (Akasaka 6-13-8, 81-3-3568-6055, kikunoi.jp/akasaka.htm), not far from the Akasaka subway station. Murata’s creations are true works of art, at once rooted in traditional Japanese culinary aesthetics and in full embrace of innovation.

If you’ve worked up an appetite exploring the teeming maze of streets around Shibuya Station along the Yamanote Line, head to the fourth floor of the Shibuya Mark City shopping mall west of the station for Mimiu (1-12-5 Dogenzaka, 81-3-5459-2620, mimiu.co.jp). The chain is a reasonably priced choice for shabu-shabu, beef hot pot with dipping sauces.

Even if you’re not staying at the Park Hyatt Tokyo, it’s worth a trip to the top floor for the aforementioned New York Grill (3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku 81-3-5323-3458). Offering first-class international dining with floor-to-ceiling views of the cityscape around an open kitchen, this is one of the best Western restaurants in Tokyo, and it takes bookings up to a month in advance. The Grill’s weekend brunches are very popular. (Note that the Grill is closed for renovations July 24–September 1, 2006.)