Deer and elk sightings by day, luxurious cabins by night. Your journey by train may take a bit longer, but that’s exactly the point.

by Hilary Davidson
November 2005

Traveling by train is addictive. I should know, since I was only four years old when I got hooked. My parents decided to take a family vacation by rail and settled on Western Canada as our destination. But while they were busy scrambling after my wayward brothers-twins on the cusp of turning three-I was being hypnotized by the land just outside my window.
I still remember the forested splendor of Northern Ontario, the endless horizon of the Big Sky prairie land and my first glimpse of the Rockies.

That’s especially true in Canada, a country built province by province as its railways expanded westward. Unlike the U.S., most of Canada’s major cities sit in the southernmost part of the country, and linking them by rail was-and still is-something in which both public and private sectors invest. Because the distances between these cities are usually measured in days, rather than hours, rail travel in Canada is more about luxury than utility. The stunning vistas have always been there, but now travelers can enjoy gourmet meals and other amenities during the trip. Best of all, taking one of the five trains listed below is a smart way to make the most of your visit, particularly if you’re looking for a day or two of R&R
after a business trip.

The Rocky Mountaineer

Banff is located in a national park in the Rockies, a 90-minute drive north of Calgary. It’s a perfect place to relax and recharge anytime (you can golf in summer, ski in winter, and hike or spa year-round), and it’s also the starting point for one of the most memorable rail journeys you’ll ever take. The Rocky Mountaineer train does what its name suggests, leading you on a scenic route through the majestic mountains. Because the train moves at a relaxed pace and a guide points out sites of interest along the way, passengers get the chance to drink everything in-all the better to catch a glimpse of the wildlife, including grizzly bears, cougars, bighorn sheep and bald eagles. (Booking a seat in the GoldLeaf Dome Coach makes for a spectacular panoramic view.)

You might get up to stretch from time to time, but the steady stream of snacks, starting with orange juice in the morning, means no foraging is necessary while onboard. Meals are served in a dining room on the lower level of the passenger car, where passengers order from a set menu that boasts the likes of scrambled eggs wrapped in Chinook salmon for breakfast and prime Angus beef with wild mushroom risotto for lunch (dinner is served off the train). The wine list consists exclusively of award-winners from British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley.

Because the scenery is the main draw, the Rocky Mountaineer travels only by day, with passengers overnighting at prearranged hotels when the train stops. The beauty of the surroundings and the constant pampering make this a journey to remember. The basic Rocky Mountaineer trip takes two days and deposits you in Vancouver, but multi-day trips are also available. (GoldLeaf service starts at C$1,099 per person for a one-way trip.)

The Canadian

This is the cross-country journey I remember from my childhood. VIA’s three-day trip linking Toronto, Jasper and Vancouver onboard the Canadian is for vacationers who really want to appreciate the natural landscape. The train skirts around the Great Lakes and rolls across the prairies before arriving in Jasper National Park; after that, it ventures through the Rockies and then winds its way into Vancouver. This is a particularly good choice for travelers who want a romantic getaway. In addition to the regular sleeper cars, there’s a “Romance by Rail” option for couples who want to enjoy uninterrupted time together. With it, the cabin suite (the size of two regular cabins) is bedecked with fresh-cut flowers and crisp white linens. Before bed, a nightcap is delivered to the door. For those who don’t mind occasionally abandoning the privacy of the cabin, there is a lounge in the park car, which serves up a selection of cocktails. The dining car keeps up the elegantly cozy atmosphere, but you’ll probably only venture here for lunch and dinner, because you can opt for breakfast in bed. (The “Romance by Rail” package starts at C$2,674 per couple for a one-way trip.)

Algoma Central Railway

Despite its remote setting in the wilderness of the northern reaches of Ontario, this train company has one of the most popular trains on the continent: the Agawa Canyon Tour Train. Its one-day journey begins in the old mining town of Sault Ste. Marie (pronounced “Soo Saint Marie”) and travels 114 miles north. The scenery, especially when viewed from the Dome Cars, is matchless: Welcome to the land of towering forests, pristine lakes and rivers, and massive granite rock formations. This scenery inspired Canada’s famous landscape painters, the Group of Seven, and it’s easy to understand why. Before the train reaches its destination, it actually descends 500 feet down to the floor of Agawa Canyon. You have two free hours to walk the trails, view the four waterfalls and-if you’re ambitious-climb 300 stairs up to the lookout platform. Afterward, the train brings you back to Sault Ste. Marie in time for dinner. If you visit in winter, you’ll take the Snow Train, which follows the same route through a surreal frozen landscape, but with only a short photo stop in Agawa Canyon. (Round-trip tickets start at C$62.)

VIA’s Ocean

Another overnight train, VIA’s Ocean starts in Montreal and heads east to explore the Maritime region. The train gets its start late in the evening, which means you’ll miss out on much of Quebec’s scenery, but you’ll wake up in time to appreciate Atlantic Canada’s natural beauty. The route winds through such New Brunswick towns as Miramichi (set on the river of the same name) and Moncton (once a major Acadian outpost) before making its way into Nova Scotia. On the next leg of the journey, you’ll roll through some diverse places (the pretty Victoria town of Amherst and the coal-mining center of Springhill) in that province, ending the trip in the historic capital city of Halifax. (One-way tickets in the sleeper car start at C$205 per person for a private cabin.)

Stratford Express

Let me fill you in on Toronto’s secret: One of the city’s top attractions actually lies 90 miles to the southwest. The Victorian town of Stratford is as picturesque as a town gets, with its swan-filled Avon river, grand architecture and art galleries. Between April and November, it’s also home to a renowned theater festival that serves up Shakespeare with a twist (a 2005 production of As You Like It featured an original score by celebrated Canadian songsters Barenaked Ladies) and showcases works by the likes of Noel Coward and Stephen Sondheim. Best of all, Stratford is easily accessible by train-if you leave Toronto in the morning, you’ll be in downtown Stratford in time for lunch (a not-to-be-missed event, given that one of the best cooking schools in the country is located in town), a stroll by the Avon to feed the swans, and a show. You can head back to Toronto that evening or spend the night in town. The train ride, run by VIA Rail, takes just over two hours, making this a perfect day trip for unwinding after a business visit. (Round-trip tickets start at C$40.)

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hilary davidson, born and raised in Toronto, is a freelance writer in New York. Email Hilary at editor@executivetravelmag.com.