by Tim Hornyak
September 2007

MEET THE CITY

Soaring 54 stories over the heart of the Japanese capital, TokyoMidtown is an ultra-chic and ultra-modern fusion of office space, restaurants, boutiques and the excellent Suntory Museum of Art. The $3 billion redevelopment project, on the grounds of the former Defense Agency, also houses the five-starRitz-Carlton Tokyo, a Terence Conran restaurant, upscale apartments and retailers, and has an estimated drawing power of 30 million visitors a year. Not far away is another new museum that now ranks as the country’s largest, the National Art Center, designed by Kisho Kurokawa.

But despite these attractions, Midtown isn’t all that special for Tokyo anymore. A rash of massive redevelopments has changed the face of the metropolis over the last few years, throwing up new skyscrapers and marbled shopping palaces along Tokyo Bay. The dizzying pace of construction has made it easy to forget that Japan was recently stuck in a recession that looked endless. Midtown Tower, now the capital’s tallest building, is the latest symbol of the economic renaissance in Japan. Real estate is one of the signs that the economy is finally on the mend after a disappointing series of starts and stops at the end of the “lost decade.”

Where to stay

A spate of new luxury hotels has gone up in Tokyo over the past decade, offering a range of unique settings from which to experience the capital. Nestled in the top nine floors of Midtown Tower in Roppongi, the Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo (+81 3 3423 8000, ritzcarlton.com) is the city’s latest luxury skyscraper hotel. It boasts panoramas of Mt. Fuji and Tokyo Tower and interiors designed by Frank Nicholson, as well as rain showers and electronic touch panels to control lighting, music, curtains and air-conditioning.


For an even trendier atmosphere, try three-year-old Claska (+81 3 3719 8121,claska.com), an extraordinarily hip boutique hotel in residential Meguro with a stunning rooftop terrace, art gallery, battery-operated bicycles and a canine beauty salon. It has few rooms and is removed from Tokyo’s neon, but its exceptional design makes it worth the trip.



For a taste of Old-World Japan, Ryokan Wakana (+81 3 3260 3769) is a delightfully antiquated inn located in the former geisha town of Kagurazaka. The elderly proprietress speaks little English and only takes cash for her five rooms, but you’ll get authentic old-school Japanese hospitality here, right down to the futons and tatami mats. The decor is basic, but inspiring—scores of Japanese writers have stayed here, including director Yoji Yamada, known for the long-running film series Otoko wa Tsurai Yo (It’s Tough Being a Man).

Where to dine

One of the most stylish new eateries in Tokyo is Terence Conran’s Botanica (+81 3 5413 3282) in Tokyo Midtown. The British restaurateur’s first Tokyo venture is boldly designed, with European touches and a 48-seat terrace. The house specialty is roast beef, accompanied by a respectable wine list.