city guides: hong kong

Time off in Hong Kong

Although this is certainly one of the world’s most expensive cities, at least two of the best things Hong Kong has to offer are almost free: a cross harbor trip on the famous Star Ferry (HK$1.70-2.20) and a ride on the Peak Tram--a very steep but very safe funicular railway-to admire the view from the summit (HK$30 round trip).

A trip to the races can also be a good value. All legal gambling in Hong Kong has to be done through the Hong Kong Jockey Club, and racing is a local obsession. Vast sums of money are gambled, and leading international jockeys ride. For a visitor, the best way to see the action is by booking a Come Horse Racing tour from the Hong Kong Tourism Board, which gives you hotel pickup and return, access to the air conditioned, members-only facilities clear of the crowds below, a good meal and some guidance on how to bet-which, for the complicated “exotic” bets that are popular here, can be helpful. The concierge desk at your hotel will organize this for you, and the ticket costs HK$490, including HK$30 worth of vouchers to bet with. In season, the races are held every Wednesday evening and Saturday or Sunday afternoon.

Hong Kong is famous for shopping, and you get a good choice of international branded goods, but it hasn’t been a bargain basement for many years. A trip to Stanley Market can still be worthwhile, though, if only for the chance to see the pretty south side of Hong Kong island.

The city has a busy performing arts calendar and several world-class venues. It’s worth checking the HKTB’s Web site for information on what’s on and how to book tickets.

Nightlife is lively. In addition to many great restaurants, there are fashionable bars and clubs on both sides of the harbor. The hippest at the moment is Dragon-I (The Centrium, 60 Wyndham Street Central, 3110 1222). You’ll enjoy it most if you like deafening electronic music. HK Magazine, free and widely available, is the best guide to what’s on.